Clear your kitchen counters. That’s the first thing most technicians recommend, especially if the issue has been showing up in that area. Remove small appliances, food items, and anything else that could block access to the baseboards or cupboards. Even crumbs can attract more activity, so a quick wipe-down helps too.

If you have pets, find a way to keep them out of the way–ideally out of the house for a few hours. Not just for safety, but because the scent of chemicals, even mild ones, can stress animals. I used to just shut my dog in the bedroom, but now I arrange a walk or daycare instead. Less barking, less hassle.

Move furniture a little. You don’t have to empty every room, but shifting bookshelves, couches, and beds just a few inches from the wall makes a big difference. Some areas may not be treated directly, but access is often key. I once skipped this and had to reschedule part of the service–definitely not ideal.

Lastly, if you’ve noticed specific spots where the issue is worse–behind the fridge, near the vents, in the garage–leave a quick note or mention it when the technician arrives. They’ll check everything, but knowing where to focus saves time and increases the chance of resolving it on the first try.

How to Clean and Declutter Your Home Before Treatment

Start with the kitchen. Wipe down all countertops, vacuum behind large appliances, and empty every single cupboard and drawer – yes, even the ones you think are safe. Crumbs and food residue attract insects fast. Seal any open food in airtight containers or better yet, move it all out of the area temporarily.

Clear floors in every room. Pick up toys, shoes, bags – anything that might block access to baseboards or corners. Technicians need open areas to apply product precisely. If there’s a shelf unit packed with stuff right up against the wall, pull it forward a bit or unload it entirely if possible.

Bathroom cabinets and under-sink storage are common entry points for crawling intruders. Empty them fully. Clean out dust, hair, or spilled soap that might have collected over time. Same goes for laundry rooms – lint and detergent residue can build up in places you rarely check.

What About the Clutter?

If you’ve got piles of paper, open boxes, or just “stuff” on the floor or stacked in corners, now’s the time to sort it or move it elsewhere. Clutter offers shelter and hiding spots, which can compromise the treatment’s reach. I know it can feel overwhelming – I had a full closet of random junk that hadn’t been touched in months – but clearing it out actually made me feel better too. Kind of like a reset.

Don’t forget to vacuum – thoroughly. Especially along baseboards, in corners, behind furniture. And empty the vacuum bin or bag right away, outside. You’d be surprised how many people miss this step. It makes a big difference.

If you’re working with a team like pearltrees.com about The Pest Control Guy, they’ll appreciate having clear, unobstructed access to key zones. You’re not just helping them – you’re making sure the job gets done right.

What to Remove or Cover to Protect Food, Pets, and Belongings

Clear out all open food items from countertops, cupboards, and pantries–sealed or not. Anything edible should either go into the fridge, a tightly closed container, or be taken out of the house for the day. Don’t trust packaging alone; even unopened cereal boxes or snack bags can absorb chemical residue. Better safe than wondering if your toast tastes like insecticide.

Pet bowls, toys, bedding–move them all. Even if the treatment claims to be “pet-safe,” it’s not made for them to lick or sleep on. Fish tanks and reptile enclosures should be fully covered with plastic wrap and unplugged if there’s a chance airborne substances will settle. For cats or dogs, it’s usually best they stay elsewhere for a few hours at minimum. You’ll probably notice they hate the smell anyway.

As for your stuff–any sensitive electronics, clothing, baby gear, or porous materials like fabric furniture and rugs, if they’re in treated zones, they need to be covered or temporarily moved. Thin plastic sheeting or tarps will do. That includes toothbrushes, shampoo bottles, utensils–anything you wouldn’t want sprayed near your mouth or skin.

One thing I didn’t expect: cupboard hinges and drawer glides might be sprayed, so take out the cutlery trays. We forgot once, and everything needed rewashing. Just assume if it can collect residue, it will.

It doesn’t need to feel like you’re evacuating, but a few hours of prep can save you from a week of second-guessing whether the cracker you’re about to eat tastes weird for a reason.

When and How to Vacate the Property for Safety

Leave the home at least two hours before the technician arrives if chemical treatments are being used indoors. In some cases, especially with foggers or aerosol applications, you might need to stay away for four to six hours. It depends on the specific product and method–ask the technician directly, and don’t just rely on general advice. They’ll give you the clearest instructions based on the job.

Bring pets with you–cats, dogs, even fish tanks should be removed or fully sealed and aerated. If you can’t take them out, isolate them in a safe, untreated area, but only if the technician confirms it’s okay. Cover cages, unplug air pumps, and move food bowls off the floor. There’s a good breakdown of risks and timelines on thepestcontrolguy7.wordpress.com about The Pest Control Guy–it’s worth skimming before you make plans.

People with respiratory issues, allergies, or compromised immune systems should consider staying away longer than the general guidance. It’s not about being alarmist, just cautious. Some products linger in the air or on surfaces longer than expected. And yes, even if the label says “safe after two hours,” every house is different. Sometimes the smell sticks around, and that alone can be irritating.

If you’re not sure when it’s safe to return, err on the side of waiting. And once you’re back, air out the place. Open windows, run fans, wipe down surfaces. It might feel like overkill, but many clients have said it made a difference–less residual odour, fewer headaches, no uncertainty. There’s a helpful community thread about this at burntorangenation.com about The Pest Control Guy.

Q&A:

Do I need to clean my home before the pest control team arrives?

Yes, vacuum floors, wipe down surfaces, and remove food debris from kitchen counters and under appliances. This improves treatment coverage and removes competing food sources that might attract insects away from treated areas.

Should I remove my pets from the house during the visit?

Yes, pets should be relocated temporarily—ideally for 4–6 hours, depending on the treatment. Birds, cats, dogs, reptiles, and small mammals can be sensitive to airborne chemicals. Fish tanks should be sealed tightly and filters turned off. Always check with the technician for pet-specific advice based on the product used.

What items should be covered or put away before treatment?

Store or seal all food, utensils, pet bowls, and baby items. Remove toothbrushes and toiletries from exposed surfaces. Clothes and linens should be stored inside drawers or closets. If treatment will be applied inside cabinets, empty them out in advance unless told otherwise by the technician.

How long do I need to stay out of the house after a spray treatment?

The re-entry time depends on the product used but usually ranges from 2 to 6 hours. Ask the pest control technician for the specific interval required for your treatment. For homes with children, elderly residents, or people with respiratory issues, extra time may be recommended.

Do I need to unplug electronics before the visit?

Only if the technician requests access behind large appliances or if fogging or aerosol treatment is planned near outlets. Otherwise, most electronics can remain plugged in, but you should keep them powered off during spraying or misting to avoid contact with moisture.